Saturday, August 29, 2015

Some years ago . . .

In July of 2008, I began a series of occasional columns in The Culver Citizen on a variety of local topics, some of them historical, all under the title "It's Still the Lake Water." In honor of this new blog for Culver-Union Township Heritage, Inc., here is that first column, pretty much the way it originally appeared.
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It's Still the Lake Water
by
John Wm. Houghton

Anniversary Weekend

I'm pleased that The Editor has invited me to return to the Citizen, for which I guess I must by now be a Senior Correspondent. Thirty-four years ago, when I proposed to start a monthly local history column for the paper, one of my first stops was at the immaculate house across from the elementary school where Culver's most distinguished journalist, Robert K. Kyle, lived. Bob was a Marshall County native who had worked for some of the big papers and covered some of the big events—he was present, for example, for the 1925 "Scopes Monkey Trial." What he thought of some wet-behind-the-ears college student proposing to write a newspaper column I can just about imagine, but he was not only polite but encouraging, and soon enough Tom and Bernadette Zoss (the Citizen's publishers at the time) were running my pieces, under the title "I Remember...", right there in the same paper as Bob's weekly reflections, entitled "It Must Be the Lake Water." A lot has changed in almost four decades, and I'm conscious myself of slipping across the border from being a local historian to just being local history: but even now, there's something distinctive about Culver, and I'm increasingly inclined to think Bob may have had it right all along. So, in his honor, I propose to call this occasional contribution, "It's Still the Lake Water."
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The Editor and I had breakfast the other morning in a certain highly decorated dining spot on South Main Street. (It's always interesting to me to see how long it takes, from any particular booth, to look amongst the various graduation photos and souveniers of this place to find a relative, but on this particular day, I actually saw two living cousins, one each from the Deck and Hughes branches of the family, before I even sat down.) In any case, the Editor and I were discussing what sorts of things might appear in a column, and it occurred to us that we would soon be coming up on one of the town's most important annual remembrances, the anniversary of the pioneers' arrival at Lake Maxinkuckee in 1836. We looked at each other over our morning caffeine, and the same idea occurred to both of us: The Shell.
English-speaking settlement of this area dates back as early as 1832, but the real beginning goes back to the completion of the Michigan Road (now Highway 31), the separation of Marshall County from St. Joseph, and the sale of public (that is to say, formerly Pottawattomi) lands out of the office in Laporte—all of which came together in 1835-36. An advance guard, composed of the heads of settler families from the Union County area in south-eastern Indiana, came to the future Union Township in the fall of 1835 to begin clearing land and building cabins. On the twelfth of July in the next year, the families themselves set out on the northward road: Blakeleys, Brownlees, Dixons, Houghtons, Lawsons, Logans, Morrises, Thompsons, Voreises, and an assortment of others. Although they did not have to wait for red lights on the Kokomo Bypass, the trip was slow, hot and difficult. Daniel McDonald, the county's pioneer historian, himself a three-year-old boy in the party, wrote in his Twentieth Century History of Marshall County:
The household goods of the members of the caravan were carefully packed away in the wagons, leaving room for the women and children and the supply of eatables prepared for the journey. The wagons were covered with sheeting for protection against rain and the hot rays of the sun....The roads most of the way were through swamps and over log bridges, and much of the way was but little better than Indian trails....[The Michigan Road] had only just been opened through this part of the state, and that only to such an extent as to make it passable by cutting down the trees and bushes along the line and bridging over the worst places with brush, poles and logs. The country through which the road ran at that time was for the most part thickly timbered, and all along was an abundance of wild game and fruits of all kinds, which the hunters of the little band brought into camp.... There were seldom any springs along the way and the water for drinking and cooking purposes was mostly from stagnant ponds and small streams which were not much better. Every night on the way they camped wherever darkness overtook them, slept in the wagons and under the trees, the cattle and horses browsing about the camp and resting from the day's toil as best they could. (67-68)
McDonald says that "the tired and worn-out caravan" arrived at the lake late on the afternoon of Tuesday, July 26. They camped at, roughly, the intersection of Queen Road and Highway 10, where a monument bearing some of the family names still stands. The first order of business was to notify Vincent Brownlee, one of the advance party who had remained behind, that the main body had arrived. A signal had been arranged before the leaders went south to pick up their families.
And this is the point that the Editor and I were thinking of. These settlers signalled to Mr. Brownlee not with a good loud yodel, nor with a gun shot (which was, I think, what Brownlee used to respond), nor even with a biblical ram's horn. Here in the middle of the wilderness, hundreds of miles from the sea, the settlers signalled their arrival by blowing a conch shell. And, indeed, a conch-shell horn was used to signal the opening of old settlers' meetings for many decades thereafter. So if you hear, this weekend, some faint sound that reminds you of Hawaii Five-O or The Lord of the Flies, spare a thought for the weary band getting their first view of a Maxinkuckee sunset 172 years ago.

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